There's a hole in the bucket (or, why this whole "balance" argument was always a crock)
|The author, showing off his giant "Pinot" in 2000|
For me it was always easy, when word started getting around eight, nine years ago, to dismiss the notion that wines over 14% alcohol or picked “overripe” are somehow inferior, or less “balanced,” than wines closer to 12% or 13% alcohol, which are leaner in fruitiness and higher in acidity.
|The author as the bourgeoning sommelier and wine professional, circa 1978 (with Heather Caparoso)|
|In Berkeley with longtime mentor Kermit Lynch (2012)|
There’s too much good winegrowing going on out there to dismiss any because of less consequential things like alcohol content or varietal fruit profiling. It’s not even a question of balance, because even those perceptions are debatable.
|- New Yorker|