Posts

Showing posts from August, 2008

Albariño, the Gastronomic Grape

Image
USAGE, COMPARISONS, DISPUTED ORIGINS
I first began working with Albariño in Hawaii in the mid-‘90s, finding its combination of tropical perfume, dryness, citrusy acidity and minerality to be a perfect match with dishes incorporating the briny tastes of island fish (especially moi, onaga and opakapaka) and fresh sea vegetables (like limu and ogo). Albariño responds particularly well to tart ingredients (especially in seviches and adobo style seafoods); and the use of vinegars and citrus juices is certainly common enough in the Southeast Asian as well as Japanese (re ponzu) cuisines contributing to the state’s cross-cultural culinary heritage.

Recently I also spent a year on the coast of Georgia, where I didn’t have nearly as varied a culinary culture to work with; but typically medium bodied Albariño worked for me in many a multi-course/wine event as a good ‘tweener – bridging the gap between, say, an appetizer served with lighter white and a white meat course calling for a fuller bodie…